Christine's "Don Juan" Dress

This dress is seen at the climax of the movie, when Christine is preforming the lead in the Phantom's Opera Don Juan Triumphant.

Corset and Shirt
Skirt
Shawl
Pattern Suggestions

Corset and Shirt

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

This pic shows the basic shapes we're looking at. The corset is an underbust that is closed in the back. It shapes to the bust in curves and cumes to a high point at the side right before the arm. The shirt is a basic lace camisole, low in the front with thick lace straps.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

This is a very nice shot of the corset. It is a burgundy rose or floral brocade. There is a center front seam and two diagonal front seams. The front pieces are very narrow, only two inches or so wide, and slant towards the center of the stomach curve without ever meeting. The side pieces are larger, with a drastic reuction being taken out of the side waist. We never see the back, but I would assume that the back side piece is shaped much like the front side, and that the four front pieces have been combined into two simple lacing panels that are cut straight rather than diagonally and have little reduction, like the front ones. I would also insert a modesty panel, either of the corset brocade or the cream of the undershirt.

This is also our first good shot of the cream undershirt. It really looks like a padded strapless bra or 'merry widow' type corselet that has been built for the corset. To me, that implies that the corselet and the shirt are one piece, or they would bunch and twist against eachother. One piece is not too illogical, costume designers do that a lot, make things that look like layers without there actually being layers. Why? Because it gives the look of layers without (a) having to keep track of eleventy billion pieces; (b) keeps the bulk to a minimum so that the director and/or actress are not fussing that the costume makes them look fat; (c) makes it quicker to dress the actress and keep it together, there is no re-adjusting the shirt because it came out a little too much and is now too bunchy, making her breasts look lopsided because there is more chiffon pouched on one side, etc; (d) it makes it more comfortable for the actress, because the whole thing can be lined without having the bunching and shifting of layers and the chaffing associated with it. So yes, lecture over, I'd make it all one piece. I thought at first that the corselet was one piece with the corset, but if you analyze this picture closely you can see that the right cup (our left, Emmy's right) is somewhat tucked into the corset. That implies that the way she's twisting has moved it over the cup, which would be impossible if the corselet and corset were all one piece. So two pieces, but I would still build the shirt into the corselet. I've recently made another edit concerning this corset; at first I was convinced it was only a bra, but as I made my own costume I couldn't get a regular bra to fit correctly without dumping my cleavage all over. A corset is the only thing I've gotten to work.

Shouldn't be too hard to make. There is evidence of an elastic in the center front under the gathering, which would help immensely with fitting. A proper corset should provide more than enough support to keep the bra from slipping inside. Cut a piece of elastic about 2" long and secure it to a band of strong, thin material like heavy cotton or coutil. Put hooks or lacing holes in the back, then put it on and mark where the band meets the bottom of the bust. Cut out the rounded shapes and insert bra cups. These can be bought at any fabrics store, WalMart and JoAnn's both carry them. Then cover the whole thing with a cream cotton or bathing suit lining. Repeat the covering process with the shirt, then attach the straps and voila!

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

10.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

11.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

12.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

13.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

14.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

15.

Skirt

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

16.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

17.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

18.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

19.

Shawl

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

The shawl is a sparkly dark material worn under the corset. From this pic it appears to be a traditional triangle that has been 'tied' on the right with the ties left to dangle. In reality, I think the tails are hooked, snapped, or otherwise sewn and attached to look tied without actually tying them. I can't see a bulky knot, or anyplace for a knot to go.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

21.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

22.

Click for high-res version. Pic is a publicity photo.

23.

Pattern Suggestions

Click for Butterick Website

This is the pattern I used for my skirt. There are tons of simmilar patterns out there. I modified it slightly, instead of being straight down, I cut the sides at an angle so that it's a little more flared at the bottom. The important part, IMO, is that little fold at the back that creates a kind of train. You can see that train in some of the pictures on my site, it draggs a bit in back, it's also fuller in back from that drape. There are many other patterns out there for this same type of thing, so if Butterick is not on sale look in the books. To make the skirt I cut three layers: two of chiffon and one of tan lining. Then I sewed all three layers separately. I then laid one of the chiffon layers over the other and then stitched lines across (horizontally) about 4 or 5" apart. (this is as far as I've gotten construction wise). Next I plan on cutting between the stitching lines to make ruffles, then cutting the ruffles vertically to make little flags or tabs like the dress skirt has. Then I'll add sequins, because I'm pretty sure the dress has them, and attach the lining at the waist and add an elastic casing.

Click for McCalls Website

For the top I drafted my own pattern, but the best I've seen available commercially is this one. View B looks pretty close. If you're good with modifying patterns, you could try to use the top of B with the bottom of C, that would give you the front seams that slope in towards the point. Both types would have to be modified to add a point at the bottom, but that should be fairly easy.