Beginner Corsetry:

~Main index~

-shapes
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-construction
-lacing

-purchasing a corset

-wearing a corset

Drafting an Underbust Corset:

~Main index~

~Type One~
-measurements
-calculations
-drafting instructions

~Type Two~
-measurements
-calculations
-drafting instructions

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Corset Shapes

The first step to creating your own corset is deciding what shape, or silhouette, you want to achieve. There are many different historical and contemporary shapes you can achieve with different cuts and boning styles. As you can see, there are many choices. Throughout history corsetry changed in the span of years, as straps were added, removed, or moved, the bust was slightly repositioned, waists rose and dropped, and many other tiny changes. These shapes evolved into one-another. And there are many transitional pieces that could fit in either category. There are even more variations in these categories, and corsets that seem to be mixtures of two or three categories. However, knowing what general shape and design you are looking for is essential to picking the right pattern.

When picking your corset design it is important to consider your purpose along with your shape. It is not safe to choose a tight-lacing shape for occasional use. On the other hand, you wouldn’t want a tubular corset for tight-lacing because it offers little waist compression. Purpose also matters when picking materials and construction methods for assembling your corset. There are five main purposes for corseting. You are not limited to one; in fact it is best to consider each one and decide what level you want to work toward in each category.

Wear – The construction and materials for a one-use corset are drastically different from a daily-wear item. How often will you be wearing your corset? Once? Once a month? Weekly? Daily?

Bust Support – How much do you want to alter the line of your cleavage? How much cleavage do you have? An underbust corset doesn’t offer much support for ample cleavage, but some will compress and smooth the ribcage to visually enhance a smaller bust. Some historical corsets offer much back and bust support for ample cleavage, but if they push the bust up they can make abundant cleavage appear to be starting at the neck. Keep in mind where you want your cleavage to start and stop and how you want it shaped.

Waist Reduction – The next level is how much you want your waist compressed. A tube corset will likely not compress at all, while a contemporary corset will take off a few inches. Three to six inches or more is generally tight-lacing, an extreme form of corsetry that requires extra-sturdy materials and construction, and, most importantly, practice to get the body used to the extreme pressures and reshaping. Every body will vary in it’s ‘squishiness’ and ability to compress. A 6” reduction may be extreme tightlacing on one woman, but a nice compression on another. ‘Squishiness’ varies depending on muscle mass, malnourished tissue, hormones, fat, bone structure, and numerous other things. A good rule of thumb is that if you can lace your corset up and wear it for an hour without getting out of breath, then it is not tightlacing. Waist location should also be considered. The modern waist is a few inches lower than the actual waist. Do you want a high waist, natural waist, or low waist?

Midsection Shaping – With the correct seaming, piecing, and boning the hips, butt, and stomach can be reshaped as easily as cleavage. How much do you want to alter these areas? Which do you want to reshape, and which do you want to leave alone? Do you have extreme curves that will require gussets or extra piecing?

Usage – Why are you wearing your corset? Smoothing or reshaping? Tight-lacing or weight loss? Effect for a costume or party? Think of where and when you will wear your corset, and how long.

As you can see, there are a lot of factors to consider before even setting foot in a fabric store. Determining these factors in advance will help you a lot, especially when you’re first starting. Later on I will show how variations in materials and construction methods can be narrowed down by looking back at what you decided in these areas. So take note of your decisions and jot them down. Post them on the sewing room bulletin board. Take them with you when you go shopping for a pattern or fabric. Knowing what you want your end result to be will help immensely as you start your project.

. . . On to Patterns!