Beginner Corsetry:

~Main index~

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-hardware
-construction
-lacing

-purchasing a corset

-wearing a corset

Drafting an Underbust Corset:

~Main index~

~Type One~
-measurements
-calculations
-drafting instructions

~Type Two~
-measurements
-calculations
-drafting instructions

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Either print out the top part and write the measurements in the blanks, or number a piece of paper from 1-16 and note the measurements on the paper.

1. Waist _____________
2. Waist front _____________
3. upper busk _____________
4. lower busk _____________
5. ribcage _____________
6. ribcage front _____________
7. hips _____________
8. hips front _____________
9. upper back _____________
10. lower back _____________
11. upper side _____________
12. lower side _____________
13. ribcage busk _____________
14. hips busk _____________
15. Lacing ribcage _____________
16. Lacing hips _____________

You will need:
measuring tape
1 yd. ribbon or tape (not bias tape)
1 safety pin
2 paper clips

Optional:

2 additional yd. Ribbon or tape
2 additional safety pins
10 additional paper clips

Instructions:

First, pin the ribbon tightly around your waist. The point here is to get a true waist measurement without reduction, so don't go too tight, just snug enough so it doesn't sag. Then sit down. Stand up. Touch your toes. Do some side bends. This helps the waist tape settle into your true waist, which will probably be a litte curvy. Again, ensure the tape is snug and hasn't gotten loose. If you have to tighten it, do the movements again to help it settle. Once it has settled, measure around it. This is your waist(1). If it is helpful, cut the tail off the ribbon after this point. Then decide where you want your busk. {Optional: mark front busk on waistline with paper clip} Measuring up from the waist tape, measure to where you want the busk to start under or between your breasts. Mark this as 'upper busk'(3). Repeat for the lower half, measuring down onto your stomach as low as you want the busk to go. Mark this 'lower busk'(4). Repeat for the back of the corset (this is where a friend is really helpful) marking upper back from the waist up(9), and lower back from the waist down(10). {Optional: mark back lacing with a paperclip} Then find your sides. If it feels like your exact side, it probably is. Again, measure up to the top of the corset from the waist and mark upper side(11), then down from the waist and mark lower side(12). For a very high upper side, I usually pull my arm tight into my side and measure down two inches from where the fold starts. I've found that's most comfortable for not cutting into the armpit but still offers side breast support. After you’ve found your true sides, put a paperclip on the ribbon, one on each side to mark the true side. Then measure from paperclip to paperclip around the front. Mark this as waist front (2)

Next, measure your ribcage right under your breasts, where your bra usually goes, and mark ribcage(5). {Optional: pin ribbon on ribcage measurement to mark position} Then measure just the front of the ribcage, from one side to the other(6). {Optional: mark the front, back, and sides on the ribcage ribbon with paperclips} Then measure up from the waist along the center front busk line until it meets the place where you made the ribcage measurement at the bottom of your bra. Note that measurement as ribcage busk(13). It may be longer than upper busk, that's okay, it will help us get the curve right for the lower ribcage. Repeat this measurement at the hips, measuring the full hips(7), then the front hips(8), then front busk from waist to hips and mark as hips busk(14). {Optional: pin ribbon around hips (you may need to use a few more safety pins and actually pin the ribbon to your clothing) and use paperclips to mark front, back, and sides} Repeat the same measurements from waist ribbon to ribcage measurement in the center back as lacing ribcage(15) and from waist ribbon to hips measurement as lacing hips(16).

**Illustrations coming soon.**