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Beginner Corsetry: -shapes
Drafting an Underbust Corset: ~Type One~ ~Type Two~
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Hardware Next you need to pick out boning. Boning is the structure of the corset. It supports and stretches the material so that it can support and compress the body. Boning comes in many different kinds and flexibilities, and for new corset makers it can be very confusing to choose the correct type for the project at hand. Each type has it’s own advantages and disadvantages, and by keeping your purpose and uses in mind, you can pick the kind or kinds that are right for you and your corset.
Plastic Boning
The most common type of boning is plastic. Some varieties are commonly sold in fabric stores, so they are easy to find and easy to use. The most common is feather boning. This is made up of thin tubes of plastic bundled together in a fabric casing. This boning is very lightweight and flexible. You can sew through the boning as well as the casing with a regular sewing machine. The boning will conform to the curves of your body with wearings. The downside to this boning really is its flexibility. This boning is really too flexible to hold up to the pressures and tensions involved in corsetry. I’ve used it selectively in places I want gentle curves, such as the bust curve of a bodice, but I always use a sturdier boning on the major seams and lines to re-enforce the feather boning. Another major downfall is plastic’s tendency to learn curves. It can be good, but it can be very bad, too. I’ve had plastic learn the ‘curves’ of my tummy roll, which is definitely not flattering OR what I intended! For this reason I mainly reserve feather boning for the bust area. The next step up in quality is Rigelene. Rigelene is also plastic boning in a fabric casing, but this style is one solid piece of plastic. It can still be sewn through, although less easily, but it’s stronger than feather boning and less likely to learn a curve. Make that slightly less likely. I pretty much group both Rigelene and feather boning into one category usage-wise. Both come in large rolls in the fabric store and you buy what you need by the yard. Usually the fabric covering is either black or white, and those are your only options. One other type of plastic boning in fabric stores worth mentioning is horsehair braid. This thin plastic braid is sold in rolls near the plastic boning. It’s really too weak for boning anything but collars and cuffs that are meant to stick out. It won’t work for structural boning at all, so save yourself the trouble. The Germans have a higher quality of plastic boning that is available in corsetry and costuming supply stores. This German Plastic Boning is stronger and less likely to learn curves than Rigelene or feather boning, but is still washable and can be sewn through the middle. The highest quality of plastic boning is Plastic Whalebone. Whalebone is the authentic boning used in historical corsets. Because of endangered species and poaching, owning enough whalebone to make more than one corset is highly illegal. You can still buy it, but usually it is stripped out of older period corsets or bodices. Since the demand is still there for a boning that works like whalebone, a plastic version has been invented. I’ve never seen real whalebone to make a comparison, but the rumor is that plastic whalebone is the best alternative available, although it’s still not a very good substitute. There are a few things to remember when working with plastic boning of any kind. The first is that it comes on tightly coiled rolls. Even when unrolled, the nature of plastic boning means that even after you cut the pieces the curve will still be there. There are a few ways to counteract this. Most patterns will recommend that you just ‘switch the curve’ on each bone as you sew. This means sewing one bone with the curl of the boning curving in toward your body and the next bone with the curl curving out. This generally works best if the bones are placed right next to each other. Another good method is to cut one or two yard pieces and place the ends under heavy furniture for a few days. I like to cut pieces the width of my bed and place them under the wooden 2x4x24” blocks that I have under the footboard to make my bed level. The weight of the furniture will keep the boning straight and it will ‘learn’ not to curve. This can be coaxed in stubborn boning by carefully heating the stretched boning with a hairdryer. The heating and cooling process helps the boning to mold straighter. You can also iron plastic boning on low heat until it is straight. This can be a delicate process, though, because leaving the heat on too long can cause the boning to curl back toward the iron, and too high of a heat can melt the boning. This is particularly dangerous with horsehair braid and feather boning because the plastic filaments in them are so thin. When I need to use plastic boning, I place it in a sink of very hot water for a few minutes. then place it on a flat surface with a book on top of it until it's cooled to straighten it out....if you need to put a curve into one area (like over the bust), then i reheat just that section after i've flattened it and tape the rewarmed section over an appropriately sized can's side until it cools and holds// carefully ironing or placing it in a warm oven.// I double-bone and overlay them, so the one going THIS way has another one going THAT way atop of it. That way they sort of cancel each other out in terms of bending, and become nice and straight.
The next type of boning is metal. There are two major types, spring steel and spiral steel. Both are durable and long lasting. Spring steel is the industry standard for corsetry. It is made from sheets of steel that are cut into thin strips, and then cut to length. The ends are filed into rounded tips, the metal is coated with a thin enamel to prevent rust, and the ends are dipped in rubber coating. It is commonly found in ¼” and ½” widths. The ¼” bones are a little thicker, and a little stiffer, in my opinion. The main decision to use one over the other is purely design. Does it work better for your pattern to have bigger bones or smaller ones? Most commercial corsets will use one ½” bone on each seam or two ¼” bones, one on each side of the seam. The main thing with metal boning is to make sure your boning fits the boning channel fabric you bought. You want a snug fit without forcing the boning through the channel. If the channel is tight, not snug, it will get tighter when pressure is put on the corset from lacing it up. This will cause the boning to wear through the fabric much sooner. Metal boning in the United States is mainly bought by mail order. Corsetry supply sites sell in one or half inch increments. Some shops from Canada and Europe sell by millimeter increments. Some have bulk prices for bones bought by the dozen or gross. Others have longer or shorter bones. Prices vary greatly as well, so shop around. You need to know how many pieces and what lengths you need before you order. I’ll tell you how to measure for bones in Chapter 5, Construction Methods. The best idea is to make the corset base first, then measure the channels and order the boning. This takes time but ensures you get exactly what you need without spending too much money. The other metal boning is spiral steel. Spiral boning resembles a slinky that has been smashed flat. It is slightly more expensive than spring steel, but has the advantage of being more flexible. Spiral steel flexes left-to-right as well as front-to-back. Like spring steel, it also comes in ¼” and ½” widths, although the ½” is much more common. Most corsetry suppliers sell it in 1” or ½” increments as well as on spools. The spools can be cut to any length you want. You snip the wires with wire cutters or tin snips and cover the cut ends with special u-tips crimped on with pliers. The tips can be bought by the dozen or the gross wherever you buy the spool of boning. Spiral steel’s main disadvantage is washability. The metal isn’t coated with a rustproofing material, so it’s not very washable. The bones will sometimes come with a rust-resistant coating of oil, but this coat will wash away in the first wash, leaving your steel unprotected. It can also stain your material, so I always rub bare metal boning with an old scrap of cotton to remove any traces of oil and grease. Finally, in my opinion spring steel is too flexible to bone an entire corset with. I think it just has too much give. I only use it in areas that need to be lightly boned yet flexible, such as the stomach area of a tube corset. Spiral steel’s flexibility allows me to still touch my toes and sit down, but it doesn’t learn the curve like plastic boning.
Alternatives to Traditional Boning If buying boning in pre-cut lengths doesn’t seem like your thing, there are plenty of cheap alternatives available. For most of them you will have to put in some time cutting, sanding, or coating to get a good product, but if you’re on a tight budget or time crimp these may be worth it. The best place to look for boning is your local Home Depot or hardware store. If you are looking for sturdy, washable bones, try to find plastic cable ties. These long plastic strips are so strong and durable they are often used as makeshift handcuffs by the police. To use them as boning just cut to length, sand off burrs, and melt the end in a flame to make a rounded tip. The ends can also be softened with a soldering iron or wood burner. In a pinch you can use an iron set on high, although you will never be able to iron clothes with it again. Be sure to do this step outside, though, because the fumes can be nasty. If you have breathing problems, just skip it. It’s not worth the asthma attack. Another source of sturdy plastic boning is ABS or Sintra plastic. If your hardware store doesn’t carry it, look for a sign making store or supplier. This plastic comes in large sheets, and sign makers heat-form it to make raised signs such as the McDonalds Ms. It is also used in hard costuming for armor for stormtroopers and SCA fighting gear, so if you have trouble finding some, consider contacting one of these local groups. The plastic will come in many different thicknesses and flexibilities, so pick the one that suits your durability. Personally, I’d never go with one so thick I couldn’t cut it with scissors. This makes it easy to work with and flexible enough to still be able to flex the bones. To make boning, just cut to width and length and round the edges. This is easier with a razor or box-cutter and a straight edge, like a metal ruler. Some stores will sell scraps for a pittance, or even give them away, and some places will require you to buy a whole sheet, which should do at least 10 corsets. Shop or call around for good prices if you’re looking to be thrifty. Study plastic boning can also be found in the lumber section. That’s right, where they keep the wood. Go look around a bit under the racks. Stores use long strips of plastic or metal to hold the groups of logs together on the trucks. When it gets to the store, they cut it off and throw it away or leave it under the racks to throw away later. If you can’t find any, ask a clerk. They’ll usually give the stuff away, since it’s trash to them anyway. Treat the plastic variety just like the cable ties or ABS. The metal variety is workable; you’ll just need a few tools. Wipe the metal with a clean cloth to get off anything gross that’s left over from the trip, and then cut to length with tin snips. Use a dremel tool or other sanding device with a sturdy bit, or a metal file, to sand off the corners into something somewhat round. Lay them flat and spray paint with enamel paint, or brush on regular enamel or acrylic paint. Turn over and repeat, and do a few coats. Then dip the ends in a plastic compound for extra blunting. There are a few compounds you can use. The most common is Tool Dip. This is found in the hardware section of the store. It’s a plastic/rubbery liquid used to restore the handles of screwdrivers, hammers, and other handgrips. Be sure to use it outside and wear a mask, the stuff is powerful. Just dip the end of the boning in the compound, shake off the extra, and hold it out for a few minutes. I try to do it around a box where I can put a weight on one end, leaving the other hanging off the edge of the box. If you do this just be sure to turn them over the first five minutes, or the dip will coalesce on one side. Non-toxic alternatives are layers of acrylic paint, which you would apply just as the tool dip. I’ve also heard of people using duct tape, masking tape, or medical tape in a pinch. This wouldn’t be good for a long-term corset, I would think, and especially not one that will be washed, but for one or two uses it’d be fine. There are also other metal strips out there that are similar to wood strapping. Electricians’ Fish, Drain Cleaner, and Steel Snakes usually have varieties that are thin spring steel. Crate packing also comes in long rolls of bare metal. There are other alternatives that require more work. You can use band saw blades and file off the serrated edge, and then cut to length and coat. The metal bars off of hanging file folders just need to be cut to length and coated. I’ve also had good results on stiff corsets with using coat hangers that have been cut to length and sanded. They’re not spring steel, so they will learn a curve, but not easily. I actually had to put a lot of effort with a pair of pliers into bending the waist tabs of my Elizabethan corset out so they wouldn’t jab into my hips. Another good alternative for Renaissance and early Baroque corsets is bundles of reeds. You can buy these in the silk flower section of Jo Ann’s, Michaels, and sometimes even Wal-Mart. You can also use broom straw from a broom you picked apart, or even cut stiff reeds from your backyard and dry them yourself. Just make small bundles and tie them together with sturdy thread. I think it would be easier to tape together your ends before trying to thread the reeds into the channel. Corsets through the Regency period also used channels filled with tightly packed rags or rope cord. These can get pretty strong when placed very close together, but they still have a bend to them. I like them best in corsets that require some curve, like the Regency corsets that skim the waist, rather than Renaissance and Georgian corsets that look best with a stiff, flat front. Mainly this boning is used for authenticity, not support, so if you’re looking to make an accurate recreation do your research and make sure the boning you’re using is correct for the time and shape you’re trying to achieve.
The metal piece that is the most confusing is the busk. Generally, I suggest that if your pattern recommends you use one, use it. They are almost always essential to achieving the right shape. Busks are stiffer than regular boning, and usually wider as well. There are two main kinds: separating and non-separating. Separating busks are sold by the inch and come with two pieces, the hooks (or loops) and the studs. The number of hooks and studs depends on how long your busk is. If your corset style is Victorian or later and your pattern can be modified to include a separating busk, I’d recommend you add it. Lacing and taking off your corset is much easier with a separating busk in front. You won’t need nearly as much lace, and it will take much less time. If your corset is Edwardian or late Victorian it may call for a spoon busk. This is a special kind of busk that is wider on the bottom, so that it’s shaped like a spoon. The large end of the busk supports the stomach area and keeps it flat. Spoon busks are more rare and expensive than regular separating busks. The third kind of separating busk is the heavy steel busk. These are the same as separating busks visually, but are built with sturdier materials. They are less flexible, but they also put up with more abuse and use. These are a good choice for a daily-wear or tightlacing corset. The other kind of busk is a straight busk. These are used to make the front of a corset perfectly straight or to separate the breasts. There are a few different varieties. Wooden busks were the most common in history. They look like a large Popsicle stick from the front, but the back is most commonly angled, so that if you look at the top of one you see a long triangle with the point facing the wearer. There are a few places online that you can buy them, and a few more that give you information on how to make one yourself. A good modern alternative is a heavy steel busk. These are about an inch and a half in width and as long as you need. You can buy these online, or you can scour flea markets and rummage sales for orthopedic back supports. These contain the large heavy metal pieces that can be used for busks, and they’re usually very cheap! There are other alternatives to busks that allow you to open your corset in the front as well as the back. Zippers are often used for fashion reasons. I like metal zippers, mainly because I like the look of metal. If you want plastic, look for heavy-duty or sport. Coil zippers are available as well, and some have good results with them, but I’ve bent the coil on too many skirts to want to trust them to take much stress. Always make sure your zipper is separating. A closed-end zipper defeats the purpose of having a front opening. Another good alternative to busks are hooks and eyes. You can buy these by the pack and sew them on by hand, but I prefer heavy duty hook and eye tape. It’s already sewn together so it’s much less work. It can be expensive, however, and can only be found in upper-end fabric stores or bought offline. It’s much stronger than handsewing, though, that if you are hooking your corset closed I think it is worth it.
The other hardware you will need will be grommets. I highly recommend ordering these from a corsetry supply store online. The ones found in Jo Ann’s are just too cheap and flimsy, and eyelets will shred lacing and bend when you tighten the laces. There are two common sizes, 0 and 00. More rarely they are measured by the size of the hole. 0 is ¼” and 00 is 3/16. There are larger sizes available, 1 or 9/32”, and they get larger from there, but I believe 0 and 00 are the two most useful in corsetry. 00 is the smaller of the two, and my preferred size. To figure out which one is right for you, read the section in Construction on lacing and decide how many holes you need and how big they need to be. Buy at least 6 more grommets than you need, because you’ll mess up a few and you’ll want a few to practice with. You will also need something to attach the grommets with. My favorite is an anvil and a driver. These are sold in sets for $20-$30 USD. Some people prefer pliers, which usually run $15-$40 a set. I don’t like them because it hurts my hand to squeeze them together, but some people prefer that to the risk of hitting a finger with a hammer. Pick whichever scares you the least. The last method is a table press. Professionals use these machines. They are basically the pliers set into a base that sits on the table, so you can throw your weight into the press. They are very nice, but also costly, $100 +. I’d save this purchase for when you are an experienced corset maker and know you’ll use it in the future. Some people prefer to hand-sew eyelets or to sew them by machine, especially for a historical reproduction. If you’re attempting this for a corset you’ll be wearing a lot, consider sewing the eyelets around a metal ring. This is historically correct for most periods, and it’s easy to pick up metal washers at your local hardware store to re-enforce your holes.
After your grommets or eyelets, you’ll need a cord or string to lace them together. There are many different things you can use for corset lacing. If your corset is short with few holes you may get away with shoe or boot laces from your local department store. Specialty shoe stores sometimes sell longer laces, so check there too. You can buy numerous different types of corset laces from corsetry supply stores online. You can also buy soutache braid by the yard at your local fabric store. Some other ideas for by-the-yard cords: parachute cord, gross-grain ribbon, and drapery tie cord. Some people love to use satin ribbon and say it’s wonderful and strong, but I can never get my knots to stay. Just find what works for you, your only real limit is that the cord has to fit through your grommets or eyelets and stay tied in a knot. Be sure that whatever you use has tips on the ends so the fabric or material doesn’t fray. You’ll be putting a lot of abuse on these laces every time you put them through a hole, so protect the ends. If your laces are bought by-the-yard there are plenty of methods for making a tip on them. You can buy professional liquid tipping solution or cramp-on metal pieces called aglets. Just be sure that whatever metal piece you get will fit through your holes. You can also use superglue to dip the ends in. Just be sure you don’t stick the laces to your fingers!
Of course we haven’t yet discussed the most important piece of hardware: the sewing machine. While it is certainly possible to sew an entire corset by hand, it’s a long, tedious task and it takes more skill than machine sewing. If this is your goal, I recommend you at least sew a boned mock-up on your machine to learn how the pieces go together and the order of construction. If you like how things go, then rip apart the trial and make your good piece by hand. So how do you pick a machine for corsetry? Well, in my opinion, you don’t. If you’re already sewing on a machine, use the one you have. If you don’t own one, get a cheap Wal-Mart version. Tough as corsetry is on a machine, it won’t destroy the mechanics for just one corset. So get something cheap and try it out. Make sure it has a straight stitch, a zig-zag, and goes in reverse and you’re good. In 3 months, or 6, or a year, after you have made two or three corsets and decide you like what you’re doing, then go buy a good machine to do more on. But don’t sink $400-$1200 USD in a machine you may never use, or may not have the features you want once you learn what you need. However, I know that some of you are going to go out and spend money on an expensive machine anyway, even though it may lay in the closet and waste after you loose interest. Or you may have spent a year making corsets and decide to look for a new machine. What are some features I think you should look for? First, make sure it can sew through 6 layers of canvas or denim. Ask the machine salesman to demonstrate on pieces you brought to the store. If the machine bogs down, or makes a strange whine, skip it. Next, pick up the machine. You want a heavy machine that has a lot of weight in the top as well as the side. This weight means that a majority of the machinery is metal, not plastic, and it won’t wear out as quickly. After that, I personally look for a machine with variable positioning, meaning I can move the needle to the right, left, or center depending on what I’m sewing. I love a power lift on my presser foot, meaning I can lift the foot an extra half-inch or so when I need to. Lastly, any machine I buy has to have a variable stitch length radio button, and not just 5 or 6 programmed stitch lengths, because I like having tons of options. A zipper foot attachment is almost required. I personally never sew eyelets by machine, but it may be a feature you should consider.
With your machine you’ll also need other various odds and ends. I always sew corsets with denim needles or leather needles. None of the others are tough enough to sew the strong base materials. I also prefer all-polyester thread. It’s stronger than cotton-wrapped, and it goes through my machine with less fuzz. If your machine has a zipper foot attachment, try to use it when sewing in the busk and finishing the corset edges. It lets you get as close as possible to the busk or boning without hitting the steel with your needle. Hitting the steel is bad. It breaks the needle into pieces, sending little steel bits flying all over the room. For this reason, I also recommend glasses, safety glasses, or goggles whenever you’re sewing fabric with metal pieces in it. I know, it looks dorky, but you’ll thank me the first time nail pieces bounce off the plastic instead of your eyes. Finally, if you are drawing your own pattern from a generator, or have a one-size pattern you need to modify, get a small calculator, a metal or metal-edged ruler, and butcher’s paper or something similar. I love the large 3’ by 2½’ drawing pads used on easels. Some prefer gridded pattern paper. If your corset includes a lot of curves and you’re a bad draw, a French Curve can make those lines nice and smooth.
. . . On to Corset Construction!
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